In 1961 Eugene Dod, Bob Martin, and Earl Levin teamed up to explore a particularly steep
crack system near the third tunnel at Beacon Rock leading up to Big Ledge.
The development of “Dod’s Jam” route is particularly interesting in that it began as a mixed
aid and free climb from the railroad tracks at the bottom of the face. On one of the early attempts (in 1961) Earl Levin recalled evaluating a 65-foot overhanging jam crack, which would
probably have been aided, but for Eugene Dod, who insisted on flailing away at it, with all his
might.
“Starting out was most difficult, as Eugene had to stand on my shoulder to work his way into
the crack. Up he went and struggling every inch of the way. At the halfway point he was almost
completely exhausted and felt that he would fall any moment. Somehow he made his way to
the top where he rested before setting up a third belay position on a tiny ledge appropriately
named ‘The Perch’. At the same time I belayed Bob Martin to my position. Bob then decided to
go on to Eugene and received a belay to “The Perch”. He was so tired at this point that Eugene
took the next lead. Through a tree growing inconveniently in our path and sixty-five feet higher
up an overhanging face (A1) we found ourselves on ‘Big Ledge’ and peaceful serenity.”
Nick Dodge, A Climbing Guide to Oregon (1975), pg 26.
