A great powerful endurance training dash to get you into ideal physical conditioning level (to help prepare you for the those big peak goals in your future plans).
Begin at Timberline Lodge parking lot (best in August, September, or early October).
Dress light and carry light (fair weather dependent).
Speed hike up till you touch the very base of Crater Rock.
Time up: 1 hour 15 minutes (or better) is the ideal time frame goal.
Compile a training regimen list with several types of this kind of workout, and you will soon be ready for the big peaks....
Monday, September 2, 2019
Thursday, August 22, 2019
Is Convenience Driven Your Bouldering Motto
Stuck in a rut, still pounding the same ol' treadmill?
Grouping it out to the Empire Boulders again (even after goin' there 3-6 times this year already).
If its startin' to sound like a sheer dependence on convenience....let's hope not.
We can understand some of the "empire" hooked thing....its got superb bouldering.
There's a better way....just expand your options horizon a bit.
From the I-205 / I-84 freeway junction in Portland the drive time to various select bouldering sites:
And the list goes on......
Grouping it out to the Empire Boulders again (even after goin' there 3-6 times this year already).
If its startin' to sound like a sheer dependence on convenience....let's hope not.
We can understand some of the "empire" hooked thing....its got superb bouldering.
There's a better way....just expand your options horizon a bit.
From the I-205 / I-84 freeway junction in Portland the drive time to various select bouldering sites:
- Empire Boulders = 50-minute drive
- Lost Lake Boulders = 2 hours drive
- Larch Mtn Boulders = 40-minute drive (wow that's close!)
- Annex Boulders = 40-minute drive (wow also close!)
- Cascade Boulders = yep same as the Annex....
- Bridge of the Gods Boulders = 40-minute drive
- High Rocks Boulders = 90-minute drive
And the list goes on......
Monday, August 12, 2019
While Out Bouldering
One day while out bouldering with my daughter, a person nearby noticed how well she was bouldering and asked her, "Which indoor gym do you climb at?"
To which she replied, "I don't, I climb on real rock."
To which she replied, "I don't, I climb on real rock."
Rat Cave route names
Why do the route names at the Rat Cave have two different themes?
Because two different climber groups were developing there and did not cross paths until late in the game. Thus, some names reflect certain movies, while some names reflect mexican food.
Because two different climber groups were developing there and did not cross paths until late in the game. Thus, some names reflect certain movies, while some names reflect mexican food.
Notable People
Don Gonthier is the person who, upon driving back to Portland one day after climbing together with a friend, said to Abbott, "Hey, there is this spot along the old scenic U.S. 35 Highway in the Columbia Gorge that I think you might be interested in."
So they stopped by at the Cave and took a tour.
It was the future Rat Cave, and indeed Abbott was interested in it.
We now know that it was through Don's indefatigable on-the-road search and discovery efforts that brought so many of small crags to the light of day for various rock climbers in the Portland region. From mini crags over in the Bulo area, to Hunchback Wall, including the Rat Cave, and more.
Thanks Don!
A Very Small Climbing World
A (Very) Small Climbing World
Just to illustrate how small the climbing world is....here are several examples, all from Thailand:
I'm walking past a (very) small crag near Railey [in Thailand] when one of the two climbers there said "Didn't we see you at French's Dome a few months ago?"
--- by Dave S
A Seattle couple I climbed with for a couple of weeks [in Thailand] took plenty of photographs and when they returned back home [to the States] they showed their photograph collection to friends. One friend said, "I know him" [referring to Dave].
Seems Dave had worked for his brother back in Vermont many years before.
--- by Dave S
Just to illustrate how small the climbing world is....here are several examples, all from Thailand:
I'm walking past a (very) small crag near Railey [in Thailand] when one of the two climbers there said "Didn't we see you at French's Dome a few months ago?"
--- by Dave S
A Seattle couple I climbed with for a couple of weeks [in Thailand] took plenty of photographs and when they returned back home [to the States] they showed their photograph collection to friends. One friend said, "I know him" [referring to Dave].
Seems Dave had worked for his brother back in Vermont many years before.
--- by Dave S
Mowin' Dandelions
Mowin' dandelions every week your primary summer goal?
We hope not.....so here are some ideas to keep your vitality sharp this season.
1. Visit 1-2 other rock climbing crags this year (crags that you have not been to before). There are a ton of local crags and odds are you have not been to easily accessible places like Hunchback Wall or Enola Crag. Or make a journey to Rock Creek Crag, or Wankers Columns, MCS [if you like easy grades], Skinner Butte Columns, Wolf Rock (for sure!), Spring Mountain Wall (in NE Oregon), Trout Creek Wall (in central Oregon), Santiam Pinnacle (the south buttress is fun), and if your into a burly uphill hike...the lower zone at Menagerie (on the minor summits like Rooster, Chicken, etc).
2. While at the crag, between bouts of leading madness, take a break, and analyze the unique qualities of the local flora and fauna found at that particular crag.
3. Your only a rock climber? Take the new leap....step over into a day of bouldering (at one of the many local and cool bouldering sites).
4. Dedicated boulderer? Visit 1-2 new bouldering sites this year (that you have never been to), and experience the unique variety of these sites. Here are a few examples: Alpenglow Boulders, High Rocks Boulders, Badger Boulders, or Campfire Boulders. Or make a journey to: Timberline Boulders, Cooper Spur Boulders, Eliot Boulder (the giant stone is the coolest), West Fork Boulders, The Meadow, Highland Boulders, Olallie Boulders, Bennett Boulders, or even Santiam Boulders.
This is just a short list of some of the many fascinating little bouldering sites in this region.
We hope not.....so here are some ideas to keep your vitality sharp this season.
1. Visit 1-2 other rock climbing crags this year (crags that you have not been to before). There are a ton of local crags and odds are you have not been to easily accessible places like Hunchback Wall or Enola Crag. Or make a journey to Rock Creek Crag, or Wankers Columns, MCS [if you like easy grades], Skinner Butte Columns, Wolf Rock (for sure!), Spring Mountain Wall (in NE Oregon), Trout Creek Wall (in central Oregon), Santiam Pinnacle (the south buttress is fun), and if your into a burly uphill hike...the lower zone at Menagerie (on the minor summits like Rooster, Chicken, etc).
2. While at the crag, between bouts of leading madness, take a break, and analyze the unique qualities of the local flora and fauna found at that particular crag.
3. Your only a rock climber? Take the new leap....step over into a day of bouldering (at one of the many local and cool bouldering sites).
4. Dedicated boulderer? Visit 1-2 new bouldering sites this year (that you have never been to), and experience the unique variety of these sites. Here are a few examples: Alpenglow Boulders, High Rocks Boulders, Badger Boulders, or Campfire Boulders. Or make a journey to: Timberline Boulders, Cooper Spur Boulders, Eliot Boulder (the giant stone is the coolest), West Fork Boulders, The Meadow, Highland Boulders, Olallie Boulders, Bennett Boulders, or even Santiam Boulders.
This is just a short list of some of the many fascinating little bouldering sites in this region.
Rat Cave trivia
The Rat Cave
Nothing gets you ready for the Rat Cave, and the Rat Cave [style of climbing] doesn't get you ready for anything else.
-- quote from Mr Abbott
Nothing gets you ready for the Rat Cave, and the Rat Cave [style of climbing] doesn't get you ready for anything else.
-- quote from Mr Abbott
Saturday, August 10, 2019
Ten Good Sport Routes Under 5.10
A Great Place To Be
Every extreme rock climber started on reasonable ground somewhere.
So here is our choice of local bolted sport routes to help you to refine your leading skill level (all under 5.10).
1. Kung Fu, 5.9, Ozone
2. Dirty Jugs, 5.9, Ozone
3. Standing Ovation, 5.9, Ozone
4. Helm’s Deep, 5.9, Ozone
5. Alpha, 5.8, French’s Dome
6. Straw man, 5.8, French’s Dome
7. Tin Tangle, 5.8, French’s Dome
8. Orient Express, 5.8, RB Quarry
9. Flakey Old Man, 5.7, RB Quarry
10. Route Crafters, 5.8, Madrone Wall
Every extreme rock climber started on reasonable ground somewhere.
So here is our choice of local bolted sport routes to help you to refine your leading skill level (all under 5.10).
1. Kung Fu, 5.9, Ozone
2. Dirty Jugs, 5.9, Ozone
3. Standing Ovation, 5.9, Ozone
4. Helm’s Deep, 5.9, Ozone
5. Alpha, 5.8, French’s Dome
6. Straw man, 5.8, French’s Dome
7. Tin Tangle, 5.8, French’s Dome
8. Orient Express, 5.8, RB Quarry
9. Flakey Old Man, 5.7, RB Quarry
10. Route Crafters, 5.8, Madrone Wall
Ten Great 5.12 Sport Routes (No Gear)
For the extreme climber already firm with the upper level route ratings, here is a cool list of select 5.12 sport routes (no gear - just QD’s) to test your skill.
1. Road Face, 5.12a, French’s Dome
2. Jackie Chan, 5.12b, French’s Dome
3. Angular Motion, 5.12a, Carver
4. Dracula, 5.12a, Broughton Bluff
5. Bad Omen, 5.12b, Broughton Bluff
6. Bloodline, 5.12b, Broughton Bluff
7. Kashmir, 5.12a, Broughton Bluff
8. Closet Nazi, 5.12a, Broughton Bluff
9. Grace, 5.12b, Ozone
10. Scott Free, 5.12b, Madrone
1. Road Face, 5.12a, French’s Dome
2. Jackie Chan, 5.12b, French’s Dome
3. Angular Motion, 5.12a, Carver
4. Dracula, 5.12a, Broughton Bluff
5. Bad Omen, 5.12b, Broughton Bluff
6. Bloodline, 5.12b, Broughton Bluff
7. Kashmir, 5.12a, Broughton Bluff
8. Closet Nazi, 5.12a, Broughton Bluff
9. Grace, 5.12b, Ozone
10. Scott Free, 5.12b, Madrone
Ten Great Trad Routes Under 5.10
Great Starting Point
For those who relish the challenge of placing gear protection while on lead, here is a great selection of stellar gear routes under the 5.10 rating (in the Portland region).
1. Gandalf ’s Grip, 5.9, Broughton
2. The Sickle, 5.8, Broughton
3. Loose Block Overhang., 5.9, Broughton
4. Classic Crack, 5.9, Broughton
5. Free For All, 5.8, Beacon Rock
6. Jill’s Thrill, 5.9, Beacon Rock
7. SE Face Route, 5.7, Beacon Rock
8. Cruisin’, 5.7, Beacon Rock
9. New Generation, 5.8 P1, Carver
10. Cornicks Corner, 5.9, Madrone
For those who relish the challenge of placing gear protection while on lead, here is a great selection of stellar gear routes under the 5.10 rating (in the Portland region).
1. Gandalf ’s Grip, 5.9, Broughton
2. The Sickle, 5.8, Broughton
3. Loose Block Overhang., 5.9, Broughton
4. Classic Crack, 5.9, Broughton
5. Free For All, 5.8, Beacon Rock
6. Jill’s Thrill, 5.9, Beacon Rock
7. SE Face Route, 5.7, Beacon Rock
8. Cruisin’, 5.7, Beacon Rock
9. New Generation, 5.8 P1, Carver
10. Cornicks Corner, 5.9, Madrone
Best Multi-pitch Route At Beacon Rock?
Best multi-pitch at Beacon?
Try this route combination, and perhaps you will consider it to be one of the best multi-pitch
5.10 rock climbing routes at Beacon Rock.
Climb up Free For All route using the direct start .10a on the left side of the pedestal. Continue
up a long stellar 5.8 jam crack and merge with the 1st belay on Dod’s Jam. Climb up Dod’s Jam to the perch, then past the small bush and up the precarious .10c jam crack to Big Ledge. Then launch up left onto a high quality 5.9 stem corner crack system called Dastardly Crack. Once you are past the initial 80’ it eases to another 80' of moderate 5.7 terrain that ends at the tree belay next to the hikers trail.
Wow, that is a wild route combination!
Try this route combination, and perhaps you will consider it to be one of the best multi-pitch
5.10 rock climbing routes at Beacon Rock.
Climb up Free For All route using the direct start .10a on the left side of the pedestal. Continue
up a long stellar 5.8 jam crack and merge with the 1st belay on Dod’s Jam. Climb up Dod’s Jam to the perch, then past the small bush and up the precarious .10c jam crack to Big Ledge. Then launch up left onto a high quality 5.9 stem corner crack system called Dastardly Crack. Once you are past the initial 80’ it eases to another 80' of moderate 5.7 terrain that ends at the tree belay next to the hikers trail.
Wow, that is a wild route combination!
Dod's Jam Route
In 1961 Eugene Dod, Bob Martin, and Earl Levin teamed up to explore a particularly steep
crack system near the third tunnel at Beacon Rock leading up to Big Ledge.
The development of “Dod’s Jam” route is particularly interesting in that it began as a mixed
aid and free climb from the railroad tracks at the bottom of the face. On one of the early attempts (in 1961) Earl Levin recalled evaluating a 65-foot overhanging jam crack, which would
probably have been aided, but for Eugene Dod, who insisted on flailing away at it, with all his
might.
“Starting out was most difficult, as Eugene had to stand on my shoulder to work his way into
the crack. Up he went and struggling every inch of the way. At the halfway point he was almost
completely exhausted and felt that he would fall any moment. Somehow he made his way to
the top where he rested before setting up a third belay position on a tiny ledge appropriately
named ‘The Perch’. At the same time I belayed Bob Martin to my position. Bob then decided to
go on to Eugene and received a belay to “The Perch”. He was so tired at this point that Eugene
took the next lead. Through a tree growing inconveniently in our path and sixty-five feet higher
up an overhanging face (A1) we found ourselves on ‘Big Ledge’ and peaceful serenity.”
Nick Dodge, A Climbing Guide to Oregon (1975), pg 26.
crack system near the third tunnel at Beacon Rock leading up to Big Ledge.
The development of “Dod’s Jam” route is particularly interesting in that it began as a mixed
aid and free climb from the railroad tracks at the bottom of the face. On one of the early attempts (in 1961) Earl Levin recalled evaluating a 65-foot overhanging jam crack, which would
probably have been aided, but for Eugene Dod, who insisted on flailing away at it, with all his
might.
“Starting out was most difficult, as Eugene had to stand on my shoulder to work his way into
the crack. Up he went and struggling every inch of the way. At the halfway point he was almost
completely exhausted and felt that he would fall any moment. Somehow he made his way to
the top where he rested before setting up a third belay position on a tiny ledge appropriately
named ‘The Perch’. At the same time I belayed Bob Martin to my position. Bob then decided to
go on to Eugene and received a belay to “The Perch”. He was so tired at this point that Eugene
took the next lead. Through a tree growing inconveniently in our path and sixty-five feet higher
up an overhanging face (A1) we found ourselves on ‘Big Ledge’ and peaceful serenity.”
Nick Dodge, A Climbing Guide to Oregon (1975), pg 26.
Southeast Face Route
The Southeast Face route is the premier climb at Beacon Rock and rightly so. The SE Face route (5.7) is the most frequently climbed technical route on the river face at Beacon. This favorite climb is certainly worth sending on your first visit here. It offers 600' of multi-pitch rock climbing on variable terrain ranging from long ramps and ledges, a brief tour across the Grassy Ledges zone, including the famous high angle crux pitch lead. The entire route offers a plethora of good cracks with great gear placements.
The Southeast Face route is a great climb for any skilled crack lead climber.
Go do it!
The Southeast Face route is a great climb for any skilled crack lead climber.
Go do it!
Thursday, August 8, 2019
Cruisin' at Beacon Rock
The route Cruisin' is an excellent high quality and challenging 5.7 alternative start to getting onto the Southeast Face route at Beacon Rock. This route merges with the traverse pitch to belay at the 2nd belay station of the Southeast Face. Be sure to bring some thin pro for the fun quality lead.
A Typical Day At The Dome
I was belaying Tymun on the Road Face route at French's Dome in the quiet early AM morning hours on a warm Spring day. The trail from the parking lot to the crag is a short one minute walk so climbers tend to let their kids or pups run down first to the crag.
Casually I peered up the trail looking beyond the trees and a minor thicket of shrubs. I noticed a reather large black dog lopping gently down along the trail toward the Dome. Oh great....here come the morning crowds.
As the creature moved a bit closer in my direction my thoughts abruptly sharpened when I realized, "Yeow, that's no dog...it's a bear!"
At just about the same time I realized IT, the bear also realised that HE was not alone either.
Immediately the bear busted off the side of the trail heading south past me and disappeared into the forest and brush. Then, it was quiet once again at French's Dome.
--- as told by Dave S.
Casually I peered up the trail looking beyond the trees and a minor thicket of shrubs. I noticed a reather large black dog lopping gently down along the trail toward the Dome. Oh great....here come the morning crowds.
As the creature moved a bit closer in my direction my thoughts abruptly sharpened when I realized, "Yeow, that's no dog...it's a bear!"
At just about the same time I realized IT, the bear also realised that HE was not alone either.
Immediately the bear busted off the side of the trail heading south past me and disappeared into the forest and brush. Then, it was quiet once again at French's Dome.
--- as told by Dave S.
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